The J-Word
Pro Talking points, plenty to think about.
Con It's more of a work in progress than perhaps it realises.
A multi-technique leek comes with puree, dust, oil and is a pleasing vegetable-leadstarter that deserved some of the bread we didn't have left. Similarly, a mushroom dish had techniques to spare, but a slightly chewy buñuelo's warm filling left the pastry soggier and chewier than probably intended. Partridge Pasta had a crumbly leg and wing meat filling, with the pasta marginally thicker than I would choose. It was helped a lot by a delicious, intense broth and confit egg yolk doing some important lifting as they provide welcome moisture and creamyness. A good dish, but we were noticing the plating of courses was all of a kind. More visual interest and serving variety is needed to keep the audience on its toes. And, more importantly, with all tables occupied - 11 covers - dish delivery has slowed significantly. It's 15 minutes plus between arrivals by the time the fish and main arrives.
Pro Talking points, plenty to think about.
Con It's more of a work in progress than perhaps it realises.
Per Person €€€€€+ | €100-110 pp - eight dishes, bottle of wine.
Food ★★★☆ Service ★★☆ VFM ★★☆
🛈Dietary Restaurant will check with you on arrival.
In Pictures
On Google Images
In Pictures
On Google Images
The Main Points
Hopes? Expectations are set very high by the offer. Michelin*-esque furniture, references in The Guardian and Time Out.
Reality? The food is always interesting, but those expectations are not fully met. A mixed bag across the quality spectrum, from flashes of genuine brilliance to key, controllable details that need attention.
First Impressions? One of our oddest eating space experiences ever. Sparse piano music, near-dead olive trees bow spookily over half a dozen tables, seperated by oceans of floor. Random green-curtained off areas line the sides of the space. It's like David Lynch is hosting an olive oil tasting.
USP? Credit where it's due. This is a unique sensory product. At present not all the senses are ones we can guarantee your wanting to repeat.
The offer in three words? On the way.
Service? Bilingual, aimiable, but timings fell apart and 8 courses took almost three hours, which isn't ideal. We've had twice that in less time elsewhere.
On tap? We tried a very nice gold bottled beer. Ask for basque. Which doesn't rhyme when I say it, but might when you do.
Reality? The food is always interesting, but those expectations are not fully met. A mixed bag across the quality spectrum, from flashes of genuine brilliance to key, controllable details that need attention.
First Impressions? One of our oddest eating space experiences ever. Sparse piano music, near-dead olive trees bow spookily over half a dozen tables, seperated by oceans of floor. Random green-curtained off areas line the sides of the space. It's like David Lynch is hosting an olive oil tasting.
USP? Credit where it's due. This is a unique sensory product. At present not all the senses are ones we can guarantee your wanting to repeat.
The offer in three words? On the way.
Service? Bilingual, aimiable, but timings fell apart and 8 courses took almost three hours, which isn't ideal. We've had twice that in less time elsewhere.
On tap? We tried a very nice gold bottled beer. Ask for basque. Which doesn't rhyme when I say it, but might when you do.
Friend friendly? Didn't ask, but would be very confident they could turn out dishes to fit your needs.
Rating for dating? Cost. Duration. It really doesn't feel like it'd be one for many pockets. But if you've got stamina and lots of conversation, you might last.
Change one thing? Dessert. It really needed to be prepared to order. A room temperature flan, no matter how proficient, felt like more investment and interest is needed in a key part of the menu. This is a course that can be the one that has customers begging to come back.
Revisitability? Sadly, not for the moment. It may work for many. And that's great. It didn't work for us this time.
Change one thing? Dessert. It really needed to be prepared to order. A room temperature flan, no matter how proficient, felt like more investment and interest is needed in a key part of the menu. This is a course that can be the one that has customers begging to come back.
Revisitability? Sadly, not for the moment. It may work for many. And that's great. It didn't work for us this time.
The Story
We arrived as the first swallows were swooping on Calle Bolivar the night the clocks changed, so we caught the last few days of the winter seasonal, eight-course tasting menu. We didn't get a menu card, so we have no names for dishes and don't sit around taking notes as the servers explain them, but here we go with a selection from the 8.
Aperitif A great start! Crunchy pork micro-sandwich with a basil filling, the accompanying dashi needed drinking from its cup to not be overpowered by the meaty flavours of the sandwich. Bread & sheep's butter An undeniable highlight. Some delicious five-star worthy bread, ever so slightly scorched, the flavour profile is excellent, combined with the vanilla sheep's butter it's a triumph. But something's not obvious. Is it an aperitif? We have the impression it is. Or do we keep it for the upcoming courses? Presented on a side plate it looks like it is. Confusion.
We will move on to a Pumpkin Pre Dessert which didn't avoid classic pre-dessert issues. It ends up trying a bit too hard, with creamy sauce fighting acidic vegetable filling and feels like something from a posh brunch. It's just not the palate cleanser you're looking for after meaty fish and mains. Finally, there's a faux-choc flan which has a texture like a deliberately cold souffle. It also has the filling of self-saucing pudding, which is properly gooey. However, at this aspiration level, I want more passion and energy in my pudding than something almost certainly technically complex, but appearing superficially straighforward.
The Verdict
The best M* cooking (well, the best cooking, of any kind) provokes involuntary emotional reactions and a lot of "wow!"ing. At least until you run out of superlatives - in M* restaurants this tends to be about five courses in. Restaurante Lur's offer demonstrates an awareness of that need for intense flavours, careful ingredient combinations and fine technique which are the starting points to achieve that. But. As of now it's in need of more inspiration, theatre and emotional investment to create a genuine connection with the audience.
Finally. Important context. The J-word. The head chef's 22. Twenty Two. They're on - yes, here it comes - a journey. So this is a step on the road. And there are bumps at present, but if it gets smoother we shall await the future with interest.