Dinner at Dstage, 2018 Update

As good as it gets

Read our 2019 visit here.

Basics
2** Michelin
At the Michelin Guide.
Per Person 2017:12-course tasting menu incl. drinks approx €120 2018: Price is unchanged.
Gratis: A plectrum.
Reservations For evenings, book online approx 4 months in advance. Cancellations? Waiting list and last-minute phoneline are available.

Dstage, 2018

Access: One low step from the street.



In Short
Hopes? Culinary adventure at a price that doesn't make you question your morals.
Reality? 2018: Almost entirely new dishes, quality remains sky-high. 2017: A mix of the brilliant new and the fantastic familiar.
First Impressions? There's no name outside.
A USP? Food this good at this price.
The food in three words? Absolutely bloody astounding.
Can they get the staff? 2018: New faces since previous visits, but you'd never know there were changes. 2017: Dozens of them.
Service with a smile? 2018: Cutlery choreography remains outstanding and brilliantly efficient. 2017: First class. And possibly telepathic.
Would you take your friends? I'd like to, if they wish to invest the dosh.
Rating for a dating? For two foodies, ideal. If you can plan 4 months ahead...
Tip? 5%.
Change one thing? 2018: quieter corners have their own charms. 2017: Tables near the kitchen got a bit warm on a hot summer night.
Going back? Yes.

In Pictures
On Google Images

Compare and Contrast
2018: Recently opened, with a chef who's on the same page as Dstage: Sunne.
2017: Wishes it was in a similar league, but not even playing the same sport; Perrachica.

2017: In Depth
2018: Click here for our update
Dstage, an eating experience that is better tried than described.

So here we are. It had to happen. We've hit a Michelin restaurant review.

Dstage

It's not our first visit. In fact, we have to declare a - vague - personal connection with Dstage. We used to congratulate - and, I fear, slightly terrify - the chef patron on his frequent collecting of Michelin stars when we bumped into him in the lift in our building. We used to see him wander home with a six-pack of Heineken under one arm, then hear him torturing an electric guitar. That cliche about chefs as wannabe rockstars? Just don't give Keith Richards a hand blender.

If you find yourself with a spare €100, and you decide you deserve to spend it on yourself, do it here. And yes, that is an order.

Our problem is how to review a restaurant without ruining it for you. If ever there was a time to say... 
...this is it.

We want you to go and have our experience. The shock of the unexpected. Bobby coming out of the shower. Jon Snow, whoever that is, is dead. Apparently. Ssssnape rrreallllly did you-know-what to you-know-who. Shhhh.... So, some accumulated quotes;
"Wow."
"Blimey." 
"I - just....for goodness sake...that's......."
"Wow!"
"That's....wow."
"Waiter! Bring more adjectives!"
So, seriously, Stop reading now if you think you're likely to go to Dstage. Really. But go. The entire experience goes on the h:m recommended list. Come back after the break to be slightly spoiled.

5
4
3
2
Still there? Two more.
1
0
Aaaand we're back.

For anyone still reading, we're going to talk tone, mood, concept and give a couple of dishes - but only a couple - a going over, The two we're going to spoil we've chosen because we think you should ask for them. That's fine here. They'll try to accommodate preferences of whatever need or kind.

This really isn't your normal din-dins.

2017 Space Odyssey
For a start, you eat in three different places. An aperitif, usually seafood based, at the bar. Followed by another, prepared and explained on the spot by one of the dozen or so chefs in front of the (open) kitchen. You're lead through every dish, in detail in the language of your choice, English or Spanish.

The decor and atmosphere are simple and look smart. Exposed brick. Aircon ducting, Spotlights. Modern wooden furniture. Think, and this is a positive, Pizza Express in a Victorian brewery furnished by Habitat. Tables are large. Two of you will be seated at a place that could seat six at a push. The sense of space in a restaurant in this city is very refreshing.

2017 Take Two Dishes 
Ravioli 
It's the boss's signature dish. Three ravioli. A consomme. And three orange beans. And some tiny pieces of something like microscopic spring onion.

And it's a work of genius. It's fabada. Condensed into three or so mouthfuls. It's the heaviest dish in the world turned into something light and still full of all the intense flavour it should have. You'll find yourself ekeing out that consomme. And those beans. They ain't beans. That's the sauce. Trapped.

Maiz
Dstage
To point out the one word name does not do this masterpiece justice, is like saying Boris Johnson might benefit a little from a personal stylist.

Not "a meringue trapped in a spider's web" (© HK, 2017). There's a sort-of popcorn covered baked alaska, surrounded by candy floss. Sitting on the base of the plate, and we could write an article on the beauty of the serving dishes, is a sauce/jam/gunge of sweet stuff that ends with a hint of chilli. Rub your candy floss in it. Grab it in both hands and stuff lumps of the thing in your mouth. Then try to think of some adjectives with a silly grin on your face. Finally, tidy up with the hot towel that's magically appeared. All the while listening to the soundtrack.

There were lots more dishes. Venison, pork, pigeon, anchovies, razorclams, red mullet, garum snow, watermelon ice lolly and a szechaun waffle all appeared at various points. We could mention a chilled Thai soup which - but no, no more.

Service is spookily, eye-openingly efficient. New plates and cutlery appear like magic. Wine and water are served silently and for once it's not to make you get through it quicker, it just keeps your table smart and tidy. We'd recommend one near the kitchen to see the magic being created in a remarkable sea of tranquility.

2018

Dstage. The experience we instinctively judge all others against.

For celebratory reasons, we have an annual Dstage visit. So - more morsels, 12 months on. It's well up to standard. We'll even let them off playing Sir Julian Churches in the background at one point. When in EspaƱa...

Adjective update: Predictably we ran out about half an hour in to dinner, again. From that point, we relied on embarrassing sighing noises when waiters asked if we'd enjoyed things. Your homework: study a thesaurus to have a range of complements ready. It's that or making increasingly incredulous facial expressions, like something from an elementary drama class.

Before going on we should, in the spirit of honesty (and, indeed, honestly), report the owner enthusiastically announcing to our waiter
"They're friends of mine!" 
as we arrived at the kitchen for the second course. But that's entirely his good nature on simply seeing ex-neighbours for the first time in a while. What a nice chap he is. But I'm still not going to say I miss his guitar-playing. And that second course? He used an ice griddle (yes, that's a thing now) and had us play a guess-what-it-is quiz, which was a bit disconcerting but amusing, nonetheless.

The creativity here is an ongoing force. Unfulfilled rock star he may be, but he's not sitting on a few old favourites and cranking them out for the fans like his own tribute act. Only one of our 11 courses was a repeat of previous years' visits, and when that's The Return of the Candy Floss Spider's Web, with slightly more ice cream than 2017, we aren't going to complain. We're going to whoop like 10 year olds offered a double-flake '99 and state, for the record, this may be the best dessert of any kind we have ever had, anywhere. As that means displacing my mum's apple and blackberry crumble down to number 2, no little soul searching was needed to make that kind of declaration.

We're adding an extra recommendation to our dish list from 2017, so cue the Spoiler SpaceTM


5
4
3
2
Still there? Two more.
1
0
Engage!

Dstage, 2018
It's another savoury recommendation, this year. This is simply exquisite, a wonderful collection of flavours and ingredients, all of which you taste individually. And look, roasting some avocado is something to have a go at yourself, pronto. What earns this work of art its mark in the good books is the ridiculous fact that, after the savoury flavours - salmon, negi - and creamy textures - that avocado - have passed your palate, you get a crunch of peanut. And it came last every time. For both of us. You'll have to test this for yourself. You can get four mouthfuls if you have the discipline, so, trust me on this, the crunch comes last every time.

They could put that on a T-shirt. Mr Guerrero, 10% consultant's fee, ta very much.

The End
And that's it. You want more? Every food website going will go into exhaustive detail of every dish with photos plastered all over. We won't.

If you can, go and have your surprises like your dinner. Expect the unexpected.